Long exposure shooting

Disputes of masters around sharpness in photography never cease, however, novice photographers are always taught primarily to achieve a clear image. Sometimes it even goes to extremes: trying to achieve sharpness, the shutter speed is shortened and shortened, while the matter can be completely different – in a shallow depth of field or a large ISO.

But long exposure shooting definitely has a right to exist. It is not difficult to take a long shutter speed: just switch to shutter priority mode and select a value from 1/6 or more, up to 30 seconds. The main thing is to use it correctly. If you want to shoot a night landscape or capture beautifully pouring water, the shutter priority mode and its high value are our only solution. It’s best to have a tripod with you when shooting.

But if it is not there, then you can be content with some kind of emphasis, preferably, inanimate: the back of a friend can move, but the even stone of some fence is quite suitable. In such cases, it is better not to raise the ISO: you risk getting too loud noises: if you have an emphasis, then try to increase the shutter speed if there is a lack of lighting.

If you are shooting a multifaceted landscape, then you will have to do more exposure – you need to consider the fact that an open aperture will create a shallow depth of field, insufficient to work out all the plans, and reducing it will increase the shutter speed.

To shoot moving water , a tripod or emphasis is also required: it ensures that the fixed part of the landscape comes out sharply.

How else can you shoot with a slow shutter speed? Another way is the so-called “shooting with wiring”: when the shutter speed is large enough, but the sharpness of the object is achieved because the camera moves parallel to it, as if monitoring the movement. Here you can set a long shutter speed with the values ​​of both 1/15 and 1/60 – that is, make it not quite long in the full meaning of the word, but it will depend on the speed of the object. Such shooting is best done with a covered aperture, so that the main subject does not leave the zone of sharpness.

Sometimes you need to work out a bit, trying different parameters and different speed of the camera in your hands, but when the result is achieved (a clear main subject and a blurry background), it affects the effect of image dynamics.


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