SAY GOODBYE TO THE NIGHTMARE OF MOVED PHOTOS [FOREVER ..]

The photos moved is a common complaint among most photographers who are dedicated to this art by hobby. How many photos have you had to send to the trash because they were moved? Do you still have the account? If you also suffer the damn moved photos I invite you to read today's article, in it I will explain everything I know about the moved photos (it is little, but something is something;)), why they occur, in what situations they happen more frequently, what makes a photo more moving, and above all and most importantly: how to say goodbye and never suffer again.

WHY DO SOME PHOTOS MOVE?

On the platform

In a nutshell: the moved photos are produced when the lens undergoes movements (sometimes small and unpredictable) while the camera is "recording" the photo and the shutter is open. Reminder: If you are a frequent reader of this blog, you will know that for a photo to be taken at the moment we press the shutter button, a small door inside the camera opens, giving way to the light that passes through the lens, it remains open during a very short time (usually a fraction of a second) and closes again. Everything happens very quickly while we hear that "click" of the camera trigger. (By the way, does anyone else like that click or how?) So, if during that brief moment (fraction of a second as I said) our hand moves with the camera and the lens, MOVING PHOTO!

IN WHAT SITUATIONS WILL YOU GET MORE PHOTOS MOVED?

This of the moved photos happens more frequently in situations where there is very little light or in which we use a long focal length (zoom or telephoto).

IN SITUATIONS OF VERY LOW LIGHT ...

When we shoot a photo in automatic mode the camera calculates the time (fractions of a second normally) during which the shutter has to be open and the photo has to be registered based on the amount of light outside. If the camera notices that there is a lot of light (for example, a photo in the middle of the midday sun) then it opens and closes extremely quickly, but if it is a photo with very little light (for example, photo in an interior dwelling away from the window and with the light off) the camera, in the automatic mode, decides that it has to remain open a longer amount of time to be able to capture enough light, since otherwise we would have a rather dark photo. If at that time we are holding the camera by hand or on some non-stable surface,

Blurred Lights

In reality everything happens quickly, without us noticing. There are even times when we hold our breath, we try not to move anything, but still there are micromovements in our hand and arm that we do not notice but the camera does, and pum .. MOVED PHOTO!

USING LONG FOCAL DISTANCES (TELEPHOTO)

This point is related to the previous point, and it is that generally the more we climb in focal length (80, 105, 200mm ..) the less light enters the target. It is a subject more related to the construction of the objectives and the arrangement of the crystals and the optics that compose them. For now, you should know that the higher the zoom, the greater the possibility of moving photo .

HOW TO AVOID THE DAMN MOVED PHOTOS

Here is a series of tips and tricks that will help you keep your photos from always blurring or at least lessen the problem:

Unless you are sure of the result or are going to use flash, it is best to avoid automatic mode . Go to manual mode and configure the settings yourself.
Use very fast shutter speeds . There is a rule that I do not know to what extent it is true or a simple urban legend but a server has tested it and it works perfectly: it always uses a shutter speed equal to or greater than 1 / x being x the focal length used . [For example, if you shoot at 50mm use a speed of 1 / 50s or more, if you shoot at 200mm use 1 / 200s or more] . Anyway, this rule works for you or not, the important thing is that you know that the faster the shutter speed, the less "moved" the photo will be. Go testing.
If you follow the previous advice and increase the shutter speed, you may have reached a point when you get dark photos. In that case try to raise the amount of light that the camera receives, you have 3 ways to achieve it: a) either using larger apertures of diaphragm (value f / as low as possible); b) raising the ISO sensitivity and c) putting some light source such as external flash, powerful light bulb, window or something like that.
Use a tripod . This would be optimal because with a tripod you really assure the camera of all the stability it needs and in that case you don't care about the rest. If you use a tripod you no longer need to apply the above tips to modify the shutter speed, aperture, or anything like that.
Use your camera's timer or a remote trigger. You have to do it because, believe it or not, even using a tripod the simple fact of putting your finger on the trigger and pressing it produces a very light vibration that lasts a few seconds negatively impacting the camera. Better shoot with a remote trigger of these infrared, or use your camera's timer (2 seconds delay would be enough).
Activate the image stabilizer. This is a function that some cameras and lenses offer where the camera itself tries to diminish the effect of the photo moved. In this article you have more information about image stabilizers , in case you are interested in the subject.

Blurred Night

Nothing more from me. I hope I have helped you to understand a little the problem of blurry photos and that from now on more photos of you can "see the light" properly. You know, if you think this article will make someone's life more comfortable, share it.