THE 10 MOST COMMON QUESTIONS IN MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY AND THEIR ANSWERS (HOW MANY HAVE YOU EVER DONE?)

THE 10 MOST COMMON QUESTIONS IN MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY AND THEIR ANSWERS (HOW MANY HAVE YOU EVER DONE?)

Macro photography is, without a doubt, one of the photographic disciplines that most attracts our attention. And it is not for less, because it offers us completely different images from what we are used to seeing with the naked eye.

This type of photography is capable of elevating unnoticed detail to the category of art , where the hidden, the invisible, suddenly comes to life before the eyes of a dedicated photographer and gives us fascinating images.

And with wide eyes we want, and also need, to achieve that image. We want to collect those details that surround us and elevate them, make them the protagonists of our best photos. Now, where to start?

Well, let's start by solving what I think are the questions we ask ourselves the most when we get into macro photography ? .

1. HOW TO DISTINGUISH A MACRO PHOTOGRAPH?

A macro photograph is one that has an aspect ratio of 1:1 . Or, explained in a more understandable way, it is one that reflects the exact size of what it photographs on the sensor. That is, if the eye of an insect measures, for example, 1cm in real life, this eye will occupy exactly 1cm of the sensor.

2. CAN I EXPAND THE DEPTH OF FIELD?

You will have noticed that macro photographs have a great blur or, what is the same, very little depth of field.

If you want to increase this depth of field, you can close the diaphragm , or use focus bracketing .

WHAT IS FOCUS BRACKETING?

Focus bracketing consists of taking several images of the same scene, varying the focused area in each of them. Later you have to stack them using an editing program so that the focus of each image "adds up" and you get the different areas in focus.

3. WHERE SHOULD I FOCUS?

Correctly positioning the focus in macro photography is essential since, with such a shallow depth of field, the focus is key to highlighting the center of interest of the image.

In animals and insects, the focus should be on the eye, unless you want to highlight some other part of the scene for a particular reason.

In flowers, textures, etc., the focus must be placed where we want to direct the viewer's gaze. It is usually a good idea to use the rule of thirds to compose and focus on these occasions.

4. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO EXPOSE IN MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY?

The ideal in any type of photography is to ensure that the light does not fool the photometer, which happens more than we usually think. This happens because the sensors of our cameras are designed to measure on a neutral shade of gray. Anything that is outside of that tonality can fool the sensor.

THE GRAY CARD

The ideal is, therefore, to look for medium tones in the scene, although what will really give you good results is to get a gray chart and measure on it. They are cheap and 100% reliable. Hereyou have an example

THE HISTOGRAM

Another in-dis-pen-sa-ble element ? is to analyze the histogram. It is the only reliable way you will have to verify that the exposure you have made is correct. Therefore, the recommendation is that you always have it activated and learn to analyze it. If you need help with this topic, I recommend this article .

RIGHT HISTOGRAM

"What what?" If you don't know what it is, I'll explain it to you briefly. To right the histogram means to slightly overexpose the image, that is, to expose it with more light than what would initially be "correct".

In digital photography it is in the lights where we have the greatest amount of information. That means it's easier to "recover" the lights in processing. On the other hand, not the shadows, which quickly show noise when trying to clarify them.

By rightward the histogram we have, therefore, a greater dynamic range in the scene. It is important to bring the lights to the right of the histogram but always making sure that it is not cut off, that is, that it does not end abruptly because in that case the light information is lost, it is simply pure white with no other information.

5. WHAT IS THE BEST FOCUS MODE?

No two macro situations are the same, and photographing a coin is not the same as photographing a salamander. However, since focus is extremely important in macro photography, it is best to use AF-S or One Shot mode . It is the most precise mode, although notice, it is the most suitable for static subjects ;).

6. WHAT MACRO LENS SHOULD I BUY?

There is an answer for every type of photographer, although I understand that as hobbyists we need some general advice to start with. This is what I would recommend you look at when choosing a macro lens.

FOCAL LENGTH

The focal length on macro lenses is important because it mainly determines how close you are going to have to get to your photographed subject to get the desired magnification.

You have macro objectives from 24mm to 300mm.

  • The short focal ones are usually useful for photographing the habitat that surrounds your protagonist, but they will make you have to get very close to the subject if you want a good magnification.
  • The medium focal lengths would go from 60mm to 150mm approximately. These focal lengths are the most recommended to start with, since you don't need to get so close to the subject, and at the same time you can have some scenery around you. My personal recommendation is a 105mm.
  • The long focal lengths would go from 150mm to 300mm approximately. Ideal for situations in which we cannot get so close to the subject. As with non-macro lenses, they produce a lot of background blur.

BRIGHTNESS

When it comes to macro photography, a bright lens is essential. Not only because of the amount of light that a good diaphragm opening lets through to the sensor, but also because of the possibility of obtaining good background blurs.

You already know that the larger the diaphragm opening, the less depth of field or more blur.

diaphragm aperture

The ideal is a diaphragm aperture of f/1.4, but since they are quite priceless, it is normal to end up dreaming of one of f/2.8 :).

DIAPHRAGM REEDS

The diaphragm blades determine the quality of the bokeh or blur of the image. The more diaphragm sheets, the better, in principle, the lens construction. This information always appears in the specifications of each lens. I don't think it's decisive, but it can help you decide between one objective or the other.

7. WHAT IF I DON'T HAVE A BUDGET FOR A MACRO LENS?

Luckily, there are alternatives to macro lenses. Not only for those who don't have a budget, but also for those who want to test whether macro photography is really their thing before investing more seriously.

INVESTMENT RINGS

They are rings that are screwed onto the body of the camera and on the front of the lens and allow it to be turned around. In this way, the minimum focusing distance is reduced, that is, it allows you to get much closer to the subject, so that it reaches the sensor with a much larger size. I don't know if you've already tried it, but when you turn the lens over, it turns into a macro ?

EXTENSION TUBES

The extension tubes are placed between the camera and the lens and allow you to vary not the focal length, but the minimum focus distance, that is, they reduce the distance at which you can focus. In this way, when you get closer, the objects or subjects you photograph will seem much larger, or what is the same, the effect that is achieved with macro photography.

Here is a complete article on investment rings and extension tubes in case you found them interesting ?

CLOSE-UP LENSES

Approximation lenses (or close up lenses ) are filters with different magnifications that are placed in front of the objective. You have different magnifications (+1, +3, +5) and they can be "added" on top of each other.

It is evident that with any of the above accessories, you will not have the quality of a macro lens. You lose light and sharpness, but they are an alternative with which to take your first steps.

8. DO I NEED A TRIPOD? WHICH?

Yes, without a tripod it is difficult for you to advance much in macro photography. To begin with, the one you need is the one you have. If you don't have any or you think that macro photography is really your thing, I recommend that you look for one with these characteristics:

  • That allows to invert the central column.
  • The fewer sections in the legs, the better, more stable.
  • The thickness of the legs is also important. Look for it to be above 1.5cm.
  • Legs must be able to move independently
  • Make sure it's tall enough that you don't have to open it all the way.
  • Make sure it's capable of supporting the weight of the camera with your heaviest lens and then some.
  • The carbon fiber ones are more stable, lighter and transmit less vibrations than the aluminum ones.
  • As for heads, I recommend the panoramic ball head, which is the most accurate for macro photography.

That said, if you already have one, use it until you see if you are really going to take advantage of it. Once you decide that you need a new one, my recommendation is that you save up and buy a good tripod.

9. WHAT CAN I PHOTOGRAPH?

Well, the answer is, almost everything you can think of ;). Although there are images or themes inherent to macro photography, you can always go further. Here are some recurring themes in macro photography that you can start with:

  • insects
  • small reptiles
  • Flowers
  • Snowflakes
  • Raindrops
  • coins
  • Everyday objects: pencil tips, screws, etc.
  • Eyes
  • natural textures
  • oil drops

This article may interest you as an inspiration. Then take a look at this one too.

10. I ALREADY HAVE EVERYTHING, WHERE DO I START?

Well, start with what you have on hand, in the controlled environment of your home or studio. There where you can organize yourself without fear of the wind, that the bug will escape you or that the light will go out.

Start by buying yourself some flowers and add a few drops of water to them. Look for interesting shots, attractive framings. Find a box of colored pencils and photograph them.

Or a tomato cut in two, or a coin from your purse, or put oil in a bowl with water and photograph it. In short, start to familiarize yourself with macro photography in a comfortable and controlled environment, and then go looking for new adventures if you feel like it ?

I hope that if you had any questions about macro photography, it has been resolved in this article. If you have any more questions, you can write us in the comments and we will try to solve it as best as possible ?

If you liked it, please share it on your social networks to help us spread it and reach more people who need it. Thank you and see you next time.

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