The way to achieve this spectacular effect is through the fusion of several images taken on equal terms, so that we can observe in the same image the entire sequence of the subject’s movement.
To do this we must have:
A tripod .
A camera that allows shooting in burst mode.
A software that allows you to merge all the photos into one.
Pay special attention to the shutter speed, since if it is very slow, each of the images will be moved. If the light conditions allow it, try not to lower the speed beyond 1/60 of a second, although this will depend on the speed and as I told you before, on the light conditions of the scene.
Well, now we just have to look for a good sequence, which can be a person on a bicycle, skateboarding, snowboarding, a good jump, etc. Once you have the frame ready, press the shutter button from start to finish, then use the fusion software to achieve this incredible effect.
To the extent that you better do the previous framing, the white balance, that is, the more time you dedicate to the preparation of the photograph, the less you will have to work later in the edition of the same.
4) Prolonged exposure If you have been struck by those photographs where long traces of light are seen, or stunning photographs of storms with dozens of rays lighting the sky, or waterfalls with water that looks like a fog, this technique is for you.
Long exposure photography consists, as the name implies, in leaving for a long time (much longer than normal), the camera capturing the “light” of the scene in question. You will only have to set the firing speed and aperture of the diaphragm to prevent it from being exposed.
The magic of these photographs happens by leaving the shutter of the camera open for a few seconds, minutes or even hours so that all the trails, for example, of car lights on a highway, remain drawn on the sensor.
How do I get it?
Mount the camera on a tripod and make sure it is firmly attached, as any vibration can ruin the shot. If you do not have a tripod, be sure to leave the camera somewhere where it is firm and thus avoid blurry or moving photos.
Adjust the shutter speed and aperture to compensate for the shot and avoid over exposure. At the end of this step by step I will tell you how to do it correctly.
Once the scene is framed and the camera settings are adjusted, just press the shutter. To do this, I recommend that you set the shooting delay mode, so as not to move the camera when you press the shutter, or you can use a remote shutter to avoid touching the camera ready to shoot.
How to compensate the exposure when there is too much light in the environment?
As I was saying, to avoid over exposure due to long exposures, we must compensate “all that amount of extra light that will enter the sensor”. To do this I leave the following tips:
Use small openings: keeping the diaphragm as closed as possible the amount of “light that reaches the sensor” will decrease considerably.
Decrease ISO sensitivity: this is another way to compensate for the amount of light in order to avoid over exposure of the shot. The lower the ISO, the more light will be needed to obtain a correct exposure, so if you want to use very low shutter speeds, you can compensate by adjusting the ISO sensitivity.
Test with neutral density filters: these types of filters that are placed in front of the lens, significantly reduce the light that passes through it. It is as if you put sunglasses on your camera allowing you to increase exposure times. If you want to know more about these filters and the different types of these, read the following article: types and uses of photo filters.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES AND RESOURCES
As we have seen, motion photography requires a wide variety of techniques, resources and elements to obtain the best results. As you experiment with each of them you can master them and adapt them to your needs.
Some of the most spectacular and with which you can not stop experimenting are:
Combine the flash and prolonged exposure: when you combine the flash with a slow shutter speed, you can get photos with many moving elements and other static, frozen thanks to the flash. This type of effect is widely used in parties, discos and events where you want to show people dancing and enjoying like never before.
Use neutral density (ND) filters: they are used by many professional photographers who need to absorb a lot of light from the scene. With them, you can use very slow shutter speeds in situations where there is too much ambient light that cannot be compensated by decreasing the ISO or with very closed apertures. There are gelatin and glass and absorb from 1 to 10 light diaphragms.
TIPS AND TRICKS
In case you found this article too short and by way of closing, I have prepared some tips for you to get the most out of motion photography. If you will not have excuses:
Not everything is stability: beyond the recommendation of the use of tripods throughout the article, you know that its use is not mandatory since in this type of photography the sharpness is not everything.
Anticipate the framing: to the extent that you can predict where the tour will be where the subject or object of interest will pass, the better you can frame the photograph and the better and more spectacular results you will get.
Be patient: being in the right place at the right time is very difficult, so you’ll have to be patient. As luck must be helped, the more you work to prepare the scene, the more opportunities you have to get that shot that will leave everyone speechless.
Use the manual mode, almost always: if you are already an expert in the manual mode, this advice can be ignored, but if you are just getting acquainted with it, you can use the shutter speed mode, so you can intervene less in the configuration of the equipment.
I hope you are encouraged to experiment with this type of photography. Motion photography makes you strong in manual mode, helps you master the camera in the most adverse situations, and produces splendid photographs full of dynamism and life.